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Rigatoni Neri

In Pasta, Recipes on January 29, 2012 at 2:30 PM

Rigatoni Neri

Active preparation time – 45 minutes, inactive cooking time – 1 hour. Serves 8 people.

The sauce may be made in advance and reheated before cooking the Rigatoni.

Ingredients:
•    1 cup + 1/3 cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil
•    1 large Eggplant, cut into 1 inch cubes
•    Kosher salt & freshly ground pepper to taste
•    1 lb. sweet Italian sausage
•    1 lb. hot Italian sausage
•    12 cloves of garlic chopped fine
•    3 28 oz. cans San Marzano tomatoes cut into large chunks
•    1 cup dry red wine
•    2 lbs. Rigatoni
•    1 fresh unsalted mozzarella packed in water, diced small, about 1&1/2 cups
•    30 leaves of basil chopped coarsely
•    Freshly grated Locatelli Romano cheese

Preparation:
1.    Pre-heat oven to 350 degrees.
2.    In a large bowl, toss the cubed eggplant with 1 cup of the olive oil. When fully coated, sprinkle with salt & black pepper and toss again.
3.    Spread the eggplant in one layer on a cookie sheet, roast in the oven for 40 minutes.
4.    While the eggplant is roasting, brown the sausages on medium heat for 20 minutes, turning frequently.
5.    When browned, slice the sausage into ½ inch pieces.
6.    Heat remaining olive oil on high in a 6 quart pot.
7.    When oil is hot but not smoking, reduce heat to medium, stir in the chopped garlic and sauté for 1 to 2 minutes. Add the sliced sausage, stirring constantly for about a minute.
8.    Add the tomatoes and their liquid; return heat to high and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium, cook uncovered for 15 minutes, stirring frequently.
9.    Add the roasted eggplant and wine, turn heat to low and simmer uncovered for an hour to fully blend flavors, stir periodically.
10.    Fill a large pot with sufficient water to cook the Rigatoni according to directions on the box of pasta.
11.    When Rigatoni is cooked, drain and toss it with the sauce.  Add the diced mozzarella, one handful at a time,and toss well to melt and spread throughout the pasta.
12.    Add the basil and serve at once with grated cheese.

Please see: Cooking in Naples…Florida, that is!

Serve with crusty Italian Bread and Chianti Classico Riserva

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Paella Isabella

In Recipes, Rice, Seafood on January 29, 2012 at 2:28 PM

Paella Isabella

Paella Isabella

The secret to great paella is to be vigilant during the cooking process, constantly turning the mixture as ingredients are added, while simmering on low heat. The rice should be moist, sticky and tender when finished, so taste it periodically during the cooking. Make no mistake about it, paella is not a ‘fast food’, but the attention it requires is repaid by a delicious and most enjoyable meal.

Special equipment: a carbon steel 12 to 14 inch paella pan, a wooden spoon for stirring and large spatula for turning.

Total preparation and cooking time: 1 ½ to 2 hours. Serves 4 to 6 people.

Ingredients:
•    2 tbsps. Extra Virgin Olive Oil
•    4 Boneless, Skinless, Chicken Thighs, halved
•    4 tbsps. Unsalted Butter
•    1 Large Yellow Onion, chopped
•    1 qt.  Unsalted Chicken Stock
•    1 tsp. Saffron
•    1 Cup of Arborio Rice
•    3 Chorizos, sliced ¼ inch thick
•    ½ lb. Frozen Peas
•    ½ lb. Mussels, de-bearded and rinsed
•    2 dozen small Littleneck Clams, scrubbed and rinsed
•    2 Lobster Tails, removed from shell and quartered
•    ½ cup dry white wine
•    1 lb. Large Shrimp, cleaned and deveined
•    2 large Roasted Red Peppers, thinly sliced
•    1 small jar Marinated Artichoke Hearts, drained

Preparation:
1.    Heat the olive oil on medium and brown the chicken.
2.    Remove and set aside the chicken, add and melt the butter.
3.    Add onions, sauté until translucent.
4.    Add 3 cups of chicken stock and bring to a low boil.
5.    Add saffron and stir well, then add the rice.
6.    Cook over low-medium heat for about 15 minutes, stirring constantly.
7.    Add back the browned chicken, then the chorizos.
8.    Add the peas and remaining cup of chicken stock, reduce heat to low.
9.    For the next 30 minutes add and stir constantly the following ingredients: mussels, clams and lobster meat.
10.    When clams begin to open, add the wine and cook 5 minutes.
11.    Add the shrimp, peppers and artichoke hearts, stir until shrimp turn pink approximately 15 minutes.

Serve with Rioja wine such as: Marques De Caceres Rioja Crianza Red

Please see: Cooking in Naples…Florida, that is!

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Cooking in Naples…Florida, that is!

In General Articles on January 29, 2012 at 2:27 PM

Here we are, on vacation, in Naples Florida, mooching off of the Nearys for a week, and guess what, first Betty and then I am called upon to cook. Sometimes one just can’t get away from the stove; but to loosely quote Harry Truman, ‘if you can’t take the heat, stay out of the kitchen.’

Challenged to come up with a dinner plan a few days ago, after our hosts had outdone themselves with delicious meals, Betty hit upon the idea of making her Paella. With the help of sous chef Joan, she prepared a superb dinner that the four of us lustily consumed along with a couple of bottles of Rioja. There was very little left after several of us revisited the Paella Pan for seconds. Served preceded by a soup, or another first course, this recipe should easily feed six people.

My introduction to Paella was at El Faro in the West Village, about 55 years ago. I had never had anything like it before! Chicken, sausage and seafood mixed with rice, what’s not to like? Dorothea began making her version of it shortly thereafter and Betty’s is based loosely on hers. I say loosely, because my mother hardly ever wrote down a recipe and hardly ever measured out the ingredients, so we really don’t know what her version was, only what was in it or what was not. But as to the proportions of each ingredient that’s anybody’s guess.

Thankfully my wife kept a record of what went into her Paella this time and what quantity of each ingredient was used. She also documented each step and we are pleased to share it here with you as Paella Isabella.

Last night it was my turn in the kitchen and my challenge was to prepare something that 8 people would enjoy and which would not require me to be in the kitchen after the other 4 guests arrived. After considering Veal Saltimbocca and Veal Rollatini, both of which would require too much last minute preparation, I opted for a pasta dish with a flavorful sauce that could be prepared leisurely in the afternoon.

I decided to make a variation of Rigatoni all’ Oltrarno, reducing the amount of eggplant by about two-thirds, dispensing with the olives and hot pepper and adding instead, 2 pounds of Italian sausage, both the hot and sweet kind. Accompanied by a few bottles of Chianti Classico Riserva and several loaves of crusty Italian bread, there were no complaints from the gathered dinner guests. In honor of our generous hosts and longtime friends and traveling companions, this pasta dish has been named Rigatoni Neri.

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The Best Italian Restaurant

In General Articles on January 21, 2012 at 3:13 PM

Inspired by a dish that she had on our most recent visit to Roberto restaurant in the Belmont neighborhood of the Bronx, my wife suggested the ingredients for Chicken Campagna. That is not the name that Roberto applied to one of the ‘specials’ that he offered that evening. We thought of the name because the dish that we developed in a failed attempt to replicate Roberto’s reminded us of a rustic Italian chicken preparation, one that you would find in a country restaurant practically anywhere in Italy. Campagna translates to countryside. Despite the fact that it is not à la Roberto, Chicken Campagna is delicious in its own right.

Roberto Paciullo, who with his brother opened his original restaurant in this Little Italy of the Bronx more than 20 years ago, is an incredibly superb chef. The current restaurant located on Crescent Avenue, around the corner from the well-known Arthur Avenue, is one block west of where the original was situated at the intersection of E. 186th St., Crescent and Belmont Avenues. For those of you unfamiliar with New York and especially with the Bronx, that is the same Belmont Avenue that gave rise to Dion and The Belmonts.

While the printed menu at Roberto contains plenty of excellent and creative dishes, the ‘specials’ offered on the blackboard each evening are replete with imaginative surprises. For his legions of fans, they are the only way to order. From the very beginning, Roberto’s cooking has been an inspiration to me as well as to many others.

His dishes are filled with ingredients and that are common to la cucina italiana, but are combined in inventive ways that are vastly different than the standard Italian restaurant fare. In my opinion, there is no equal, and I agree with John Mariani, the writer and columnist for Esquire and Bloomberg News, Roberto is ‘The Best Italian Restaurant in America’.

Thanks Roberto, for many years of good eating and inspiration. I can’t wait to return to see what you have developed next.

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Chicken Campagna

In Chicken, Meat, Recipes on January 15, 2012 at 5:34 PM

Chicken Campagna

(Preparation 15 minutes; active cooking 30 minutes. Serves 4, or serves 2 with leftovers)

Ingredients:

1/3 cup of Extra Virgin Olive Oil
3 tbsps. of coarsely chopped garlic, about 7 large cloves
2 lbs. boneless, skinless chicken thighs
6 tbsps. flour
Freshly ground black pepper and Kosher salt to taste
1 cup of sliced onion; slice medium onion in half from top to root end and then thinly slice each half
4 sliced Cherry Peppers, stems removed and discarded
2 cups of sliced Campari Tomatoes® or Cherry Tomatoes, about 10 oz.
½ cup red wine
2 tbsps. of chopped sage
1 tbsp. beef demi-glace

Preparation:

1.    Add the flour to a shallow bowl and mix in the salt and pepper. Dredge the chicken thighs and set aside.
2.    In a stainless steel sauté pan, heat the olive oil on medium. When shimmering, add the garlic and stir.
3.    When garlic is translucent add the chicken thighs and brown for 8 minutes in total. Turn after 2 minutes and brown for 2 minutes on the other side. Repeat – 2 minutes on each side.
4.    Remove the thighs and keep warm. Lower the heat and de-glaze the pan by first adding the onions, then the cherry peppers and tomatoes. Mix well with the onions, scraping up the pan, let cook for 2 or 3 minutes. Then add the wine and bring to a boil.
5.    Return the browned chicken to the pan, cover and reduce the heat to medium-low. Cook for 12 minutes, turning the chicken pieces once, after 6 minutes.
6.    Add the sage and cook 2 minutes more, uncovered.
7.    Remove the chicken to a warmed serving platter and cover with aluminum foil to keep warm. Raise heat to high, add the demi-glace and mix well, stir until the sauce reaches the desired thickness.
8.    Pour the sauce over the chicken and serve immediately.

Serve with Broccoli Rabe Sauteed in Garlic and Olive Oil  and Crusty Italian Bread with which to sop up the delicious sauce.

Please see The Best Italian Restaurant

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Vegetable Stir-Fry

In Vegetables, Vegetarian Meals on January 13, 2012 at 11:48 AM

Vegetable Stir-Fry

(40 minutes preparation, 10 minutes active cooking: serves 3 to 4 with a side of rice)

Note: In stir-frying, which requires speed and constant attention, it is best to prepare and measure each of the ingredients and lay them out in order of usage before beginning to cook, this requires most of the time and effort, so a sous chef would be of great help. A wok is the best cooking vehicle for stir-frying, but in a pinch, a large saute pan would work. However, the vegetables tend to steam rather than retain their crunchiness. Under-cooking is the key word in stir-frying vegetables, so please invest in a wok, if you don’t have one.

Ingredients:

3 tbsps. minced garlic, about 6 cloves
1 cup of scallions, white parts sliced thin, green parts cut into ¼” pieces
2 tbsps. minced fresh ginger,  on 2 inch piece, peeled
8 cups of broccoli florets, about 1 & 1/4 lbs.
4 cups of red peppers, cut into 1″ squares, about 2 large peppers
3 cups of green peppers, cut into 1″ squares, 1 large pepper
10 cups of Bok Choy, cut into ¾” pieces, about 1 & ½ lbs.
2 cups of Snow Peas, about 6 oz.
¼ lb. of Shiitake Mushrooms, sliced
6 tbsps. of Sesame Oil
3 tbsp. of Reduced Sodium Soy Sauce
1/2 cup of unsalted chicken stock
2 tbsps. Sambal Oelek, ground fresh chili paste
4 tbsps. Hoisin Sauce
Wondra flour or cornstarch as needed to thicken the sauce

Preparation:

1.    Rinse, dry and chop or slice all of the vegetables and place each in separate bowls. Measure out each of the other ingredients.
2.    Pre-heat a wok on high heat, add 4 tbsps. of sesame oil.
3.    When the oil begins to shimmer and slightly smoke, quickly add the garlic, scallions and ginger and stir briskly for about 20 to 30 seconds to prevent burning.
4.    Add the broccoli and stir-fry for 2 minutes.
5.    Add the red and green peppers and continuing stir frying for an additional 1 minute.
6.    Add. 3 tbsps. of soy sauce, stir well for 1 minute and then add ¼ cup of chicken stock, continue cooking and stirring for 2 more minutes
7.    Remove the vegetables, set aside and keep warm.
8.    Add the remaining 2 tbsps. of sesame oil and when shimmering add the bok choy, stir fry for 1 minute.
9.    Add the snow peas and mushrooms; continue stir-frying 1 minute more.
10.    Move the vegetables to the sides of the wok and in the center of the wok, add the remaining ¼ cup of chicken stock, Chili Paste and Hoisin Sauce.
11.    When the liquids begin to boil, mix the vegetables well with the sauce, add back the set-aside vegetables and stir briskly for 2 minutes.
12. Remove the vegetables to a serving bowl with a slotted spoon, bring the sauce to boil to and add Wondra or cornstarch to thicken the sauce.
13. Pour the sauce over the vegetables and serve with rice.

Beer goes best with this dish, particularly Tsingtao

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Breaking Out of the Food-Induced Coma

In General Articles on January 12, 2012 at 6:06 PM

We were a week into the New Year and attempting to break out of the holiday season food-induced coma of the prior six week period.  That coupled with the need for me to fit into my tux and my wife into her gown for a black tie event a few weeks down the road, led us back to seafood meals.

Our immediate thought the other night was for some shrimp, perhaps sautéed in butter, garlic and white wine and maybe a side of rice to absorb the sauce. But upon visiting the fish market, freshly harvested Bay Scallops were prominently displayed and attracted our attention.  Then it hit me; combine the shrimp and scallops with the rice and, presto, Seafood Risotto! All that was needed were some mussels to round out the seafood medley and we would have a true Frutti di Mare. Alas, there were no mussels to be had.

My wife who has an eye for these things, suggested that we go ahead with the risotto idea, and to add some color and flavor use up the leftover arugula and scallions, which had gone into the previous evening’s salad. A brilliant idea, I thought.

Making a risotto is fairly easy, but does involve active participation for perhaps an hour or so. However, the result is well worth the effort, so don’t be deterred by the time factor. Arborio Rice, which is a short-grained rice, is considered to be the best for making a risotto. It has a high starch content which produces an exquisite creaminess, as well as the ability to absorb plenty of moisture without losing its bite, its al dente quality.

Yesterday as my thoughts remained in the seafood mode, I visited the fish market again and purchased some flounder fillets along with a 1 pound can of crabmeat. These ingredients were melded into Baked Stuffed Flounder Fillets. Both of these meals were a welcome and delicious respite from our hearty holiday fare.

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Seafood Risotto

In Recipes, Rice, Seafood on January 12, 2012 at 6:00 PM

Seafood Risotto

(Serves four. Active Preparation time 50 to 60 minutes)

Ingredients:

8 cups of  Unsalted Chicken Stock
1 pinch of Saffron threads, about 1/8 tsp.
3 tbsps. Extra Virgin Olive Oil
3 tbsps. plus 2 tbsps. Unsalted Butter
1/3 cup Scallions, sliced; about 4 Scallions both green and white parts
2 cups of Arborio Rice
1 cup plus ½ cup of dry white wine
¼ lb. of Arugula
½ cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
½ lb. bay scallops
½ lb. large shrimp (8 or 9), shelled, deveined and cut in half
½ tsp. Hot Hungarian Paprika

Preparation:

1.    Heat the chicken stock in a small pot.
2.    Remove one cup of stock and add the saffron and set aside.
3.    In a separate, 3 qt. pot, heat the olive oil on medium, add 3 tbsps. butter to melt, stir well.
4.    Lower the heat; add the scallions and sauté for 2 minutes.
5.    Add the rice, raise heat to medium, and stir well for about 4 minutes to coat each grain of rice.
6.    Add the white wine, continuing to stir until the wine is absorbed.
7.    Add the set-aside cup of stock with saffron and keep stirring until all of the liquid is absorbed.
8.    Add a second cup of stock from the heated pot and add a handful of arugula, stirring well until the arugula becomes limp and the stock is all absorbed, about 3-5 minutes.
9.    Continue this process until all of the arugula and 7 cups of stock are used, leaving one cup still heated in the small pot, which will be added at the end.
10.    In the meantime, heat the remaining 2 tbsps. of butter in a sauté pan, add the scallops and shrimps and sauté on high heat for three minutes.
11.    Pour the remaining ½ cup of white wine over the shrimp and scallops and continue to sauté until most of the wine is absorbed. Sprinkle with the paprika and add to the rice after step 9.
12.    Add the Parmigiano-Reggiano, as well as the one remaining cup of stock, mix well and serve immediately.

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Baked Flounder Stuffed with Crabmeat

In Fish, Recipes, Seafood on January 12, 2012 at 5:51 PM

Baked Flounder Stuffed with Crabmeat

(Active preparation time 30 minutes; cooking time 20 minutes: Serves 2)

Ingredients for Crabmeat Stuffing (makes about 8 tablespoons of stuffing):

2 tbsps. unsalted butter
1 shallot, finely chopped
4 oz. crabmeat
1 tsp. Powdered Mustard
1 heaping tsp. Hot Hungarian Paprika
¼ cup dry white wine
1 tablespoon Italian Flavored Breadcrumbs
4 sage leaves, chopped

Other Ingredients:

4 Flounder fillets about 14 oz. in total
4 small pats of butter
Hot Hungarian paprika, for sprinkling
½ cup dry white wine
½ teaspoon or more of Wondra Flour
Lemon wedges

Preparation: Pre-Heat Oven to 375 degrees

For the Stuffing:
1.    Melt the butter in a medium sauté pan over medium-low flame.
2.    Add shallots and sauté until translucent.
3.    Add crabmeat and breakup large pieces with a fork, add spices.
4.    Add wine and cook down a few minutes, stirring mixture continuously.
5.    Add breadcrumbs until liquid is all absorbed, stirring mixture continuously.
6.    Add chopped sage, and stir into mixture.
7.    Remove stuffing from pan, place in a small bowl and allow to cool, prior to stuffing the fish.

Crabmeat Stuffing

For the Flounder:
1.    Spread fillets out on a carving board, with the narrower, pointed end of the fillets facing the away from you and the fillets tuned so that the inside is face up.
2.    Take about 2 tablespoon of crabmeat stuffing and beginning at the end of the fillet closest to you, lay the stuffing on the sole spreading it out as you move upward, but stopping about 1.5 inches from the narrow end.

Preparing the Flounder

3.    Roll-up the fillets starting with the end nearest you and secure each with a toothpick.
4.    Place the rolled-up fillets in a non-reactive baking dish, with toothpick sides facing down and top each with a pat of butter, and sprinkle with paprika.


5.    Bake in a pre-heated 375 degree oven on the top shelf for 18 minutes.
6.    After 9 minutes into the baking, add  ½ cup of dry white wine.
7.    When fish is cooked, remove from pan and set aside and keep warm.
8.    Pour off the liquid into a small pot and boil on high for 2 to 3 minutes, while whisking in a ½ teaspoon or more of Wondra flour to thicken.
9.    Pour sauce over fillets and serve immediately, with lemon wedges.

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Veal Rollatini with a Marsala, Demi-Glace Sauce

In Meat, Recipes, Veal on January 5, 2012 at 8:57 AM

Veal Rollatini

Three different Italian Regions are represented in this dish: Valle d’Aosta in the northeast, where Italian Fontina is produced; Emilia-Romagna, the breadbasket of Italy for Prosciutto di Parma and Sicily the home of Marsala and the wine named after the city, as well as France where Demi-Glace originated.

Preparation time, 45 minutes, cooking time 15 minutes. (Makes 12 veal rolls -serves six)

Ingredients:

2 lbs. Veal Cutlets trimmed for scaloppine (about 12 slices)
½ lb. Prosciutto di Parma
3/4 lb. Italian Fontina cheese, sliced thinly
12 basil leaves
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 eggs, whisked
1 cup flour
6 tbsp. unsalted butter
12 oz. + ¼ cup Dry Marsala (see Note)
12 sage leaves, finely chopped
4 tbsp. Veal Demi-Glace

Preparation:

1.    Have the butcher slice and trim the veal for scaloppine, telling him you need 12 cutlets.
2.    Pat the veal dry on both sides and lay slices on a cutting board with narrow end facing away from you.
3.    Sprinkle top with fresh ground black pepper to taste.
4.    Layer on two slices of Prosciutto di Parma.
5.    Cover prosciutto with sliced Fontina.
6.    Place one basil leaf on top of the cheese, at the end closest to you.

Layering the Veal

7.    Carefully roll up the veal and other ingredients away from you so that the narrow end is on the outside of the rollup.
8.    Secure each roll with two toothpicks.

Rolled Up

9.    Pre-heat oven to 200 degrees.
10.    When all of the rolls are secured, dip them one by one, in the egg and then in the flour and set aside.
11.    In a 14 inch non-stick skillet, on high heat, melt the butter.
12.    When the butter is bubbling, add the floured veal rolls and brown for about 3 or 4 minutes turning every minute until all sides are lightly browned.
13.    Lower heat to medium, add the 12 oz. of Marsala, cover the pan and cook the veal rolls for 6 minutes, turning each roll after 3 minutes.

In the Pan

14.    To make the sauce, remove Rollatini from the pan and keep warm in the oven.
15.    Add remaining ¼ cup of Marsala, the sage and demi-glace to the pan, stir and reduce to desired thickness. Return veal rolls to the pan along with any accumulated juices and turn once to coat well with the sauce.
16.    Transfer the Rollatini to a serving platter,  pour the sauce over them and serve immediately. Remind your guests about the toothpicks.

Note:  You can also use Sweet Marsala as well, however, I prefer the Dry type for this dish. This is a matter of taste preference and availability.

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Where Have All the Butchers Gone?

In General Articles on January 4, 2012 at 4:25 PM

While attending high school, I held a number of after-school and summer jobs. It was easy to find work growing up in Inwood in the 1950’s, as there were many stores that needed delivery boys;  the drug stores, the florists, the dry cleaners, the fruit & vegetable stores, the deli’s, the fish markets and the butchers. There were not many cars in the neighborhood then, so we delivery boys either hoofed it, or made our runs on delivery bikes.

My delivery boy career included a cleaner, a fruit & vegetable store and a butcher; the latter was located on the corner of 207th Street and Sherman Avenue and was called Wal-Fred’s. I don’t recall either a Walter or a Fred, but think I remember a Tommy and a Patsy (Pasquale), both Italian-Americans, who were either brothers or cousins.  I’m lucky I can recall even that, but one thing I will never forget is the smell.

The delivery boy was also the one who cleaned the store after his delivery rounds were completed. There were chicken cases to be scrubbed and display trays to be washed; there were butcher blocks to be scraped with a steel brush; there were fat /offal cans to be washed out and deodorized and there was the floor to be swept and covered with fresh sawdust before the store was closed for the night at 6:00 pm. Aside from the tips, one of the best aspects of the job, was on a hot summer’s day being able to walk into the meat locker to cool down before heading home to my non air-conditioned apartment.

One by one, in most neighborhoods and towns, the little stores that provided these jobs disappeared as supermarkets and mega-markets made their appearance. And with the proliferation of cars and vans, deliveries are more often made by motor vehicle rather than on foot and bike. Of all of these businesses that have disappeared, the loss of butcher shops strikes me as the saddest.

Buying meat wrapped in plastic and placed on a Styrofoam tray is a far cry from asking the butcher to cut you a steak to a particular size, or to slice the veal cutlets and pound them into scaloppine or even to find certain specialty cuts like Osso Buco on the day you want to make it, rather than wait for the next warehouse delivery.

On a recent trip to New York, we visited our favorite butcher, Vincent’s Meat Market, on Arthur Avenue in The Bronx. At Vincent’s you are able to get the type of service that was standard back when there were butcher shops in every town and neighborhood. On this latest trip we brought back with us both 2 pounds of Veal Scaloppine and 4 lbs. of Osso Buco. The Osso Buco, which were two inches thick, were too large for one person, so at our request the butcher cut them in half horizontally with his electric band saw. Try getting that done in your local supermarket, even if you can find Osso Buco.

The veal cutlets, having been rolled and stuffed with Prosciutto and Fontina cheese, served six as Veal Rollatini for dinner last week. The Osso Buco was prepared Milanese style (without tomatoes, which in my opinion detract from the intense veal flavor) and served four for dinner on New Year’s Eve.

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Risotto Milanese

In Recipes, Rice on January 4, 2012 at 4:24 PM

Risotto Milanese

Serves 4. Active preparation time 30-45 minutes.

Ingredients:

1 qt. unsalted chicken stock
2 tbsps. unsalted butter
2 tbsps. extra virgin olive oil
1 cup Arborio Rice
3 pinches saffron threads
2 tablespoons grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Preparation:

1.    Bring chicken broth to a boil in a 2 qt. pot. Reduce heat to low and keep warm.
2.    Remove 1 cup of stock and add the saffron threads.
3.    In a 3 qt. pot, melt the butter over medium heat, add the oil
4.    Add the rice and cook for several minutes, stirring to coat each grain.
5.    Add the cup of the warm chicken stock with saffron and cook, stirring, until the rice has absorbed the liquid.
6.    Add the remaining stock, 1 cup at a time. Continue to stir, allowing the rice to absorb each cup of stock before adding the next.
7.    Test the rice for doneness, it should be al dente but creamy smooth.
8.    Remove risotto from heat, add grated cheese and black pepper. Serve at once with Osso Buco Milanese.

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Osso Buco Milanese

In Meat, Recipes, Veal on January 4, 2012 at 4:22 PM

Osso Buco Milanese with Gremolata and Risotto Milanese

Serves 4. Active Preparation – 30 minutes, cooking time 3 hours

Ingredients:

4 veal shanks, (Osso Buco) each about 1.5 inches thick (1 lb. each). If larger, have the butcher cut them in two, horizontally.
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
4 tablespoons butter
1 medium sized onion, finely chopped
½ cup celery, finely chopped
½ cup carrots, finely chopped
7 garlic cloves—4 sliced thick, 3 minced
3 bay leaves
2 cups unsalted chicken stock
2 cups dry white wine
6 sprigs of thyme
2 tbsp. veal demi-glace
2 tbsp. flour
Zest of 1 orange
Zest of 1 lemon
2 tablespoons minced Italian, (flat-leaf) parsley

Preparation:

1.    Season the veal shanks with salt and pepper.
2.    Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large braising pan add the butter and melt.
3.    Brown the veal shanks over medium-high heat until well browned on both sides 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer them to a plate and cover to keep warm.
4.    Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil to the pan. Add the diced onion, celery, carrots, sliced garlic cloves and bay leaves and cook over medium heat until they are softened and lightly browned, about 8 minutes.
5.    Add white wine and deglaze the pan. Add the chicken stock and thyme and bring to a boil.
6.    Add back the veal and any accumulated juices, cover the braising pan and cook on low heat for about 2- 2.5 hours, until very tender.
7.    Meanwhile, prepare the gremolata.  In a small bowl, mix the orange & lemon zest, minced parsley and the 3 minced garlic cloves.
8.    When the shanks are cooked, transfer them to a serving platter, cover with foil and keep warm in a preheated 200 degree oven.
9.    Strain the liquid into a bowl, discarding the solids.
10.    Rinse the braising pan and wipe dry. Pour the liquid back into the pan, bring to a boil over high heat, add the demi-glace and reduce on high heat for several minutes, lower heat, add flour and return meat to pan and keep warm until ready to serve.
11.    Pour the gravy over the Osso Buco, sprinkle each veal shank lightly with the gremolata and serve.

Note: The Osso Buco can be made in advance. Serve with Risotto Milanese.

One of the treats of this dish is the delicious marrow in the center of the bone. In fact, the name Osso Buco means bone with a hole.

Please see: Where Have All the Butchers Gone?

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