Archive for 2012|Yearly archive page
bourbon, Bourbon Sweet Potatoes, brussel sprouts, Cranberry Sauce, dinner, food, happy thanksgiving, Italian sausage, Mushrooms, Roast Turkey, Roasted Hazelnuts, Stuffing, Sweet Potatoes, Thanksgiving, thanksgiving menu, thanksgiving recipes, Turkey soup
In General Articles, Recipes, Thanksgiving on November 15, 2012 at 10:01 AM
…if, you are still planning your Thanksgiving menu, perhaps we can be of assistance. Last year we posted our traditional family Thanksgiving recipes; here we link them in this update, which we hope that you will find helpful.
Ready and Waiting for the Carving Knife
This year, as our long-time close friends, Marge & Dan, as well as their 3 children and their families will be joining us, we will have 22 at table. Accordingly, we will be doubling up on the Roast Stuffed Turkey with Dorothea’s Italian Sausage and Mushroom Stuffing, and tripling up on the sides of Fresh Cranberry Sauce, Bourbon Sweet Potatoes and Brussel Sprouts Roasted with Hazelnuts.
Fresh Cranberry Sauce
Roasted Brussel sprouts with Hazelnuts
In addition to sharing this special meal with special friends, we will enjoy the added bonus of a double quantity of Turkey Soup after the feast is but a happy memory.
Turkey Soup with Cheese Tortelloni
Happy Thanksgiving to all of our subscribers and readers!
Cape Cod, cod, Fish & Chips, New England, Rochester
In General Articles on November 10, 2012 at 5:47 PM
Living in New England and particularly on Cape Cod, Cod is plentiful all year long. It is healthful, not particularly expensive and, as noted, ubiquitous in the Northeast USA. So then why haven’t I previously posted any Cod recipes; because Cod, despite its many positive virtues, is basically a bland fish; and due to its flakiness, somewhat difficult to prepare.
You can’t grill it, it falls apart too easily. You can’t broil it, it dries out too quickly. You can’t marinate it, it would turn to mush. You could, of course, batter it and fry it, as in Fish & Chips, but that’s too messy for a home cook and besides would stink up the house; no, fish & chips are best left to the professionals. So what can you do with it? You could poach it and serve it with a flavorful sauce, or you bake it and do likewise, but neither of those ideas ever excited me. So Cod has been absent from my repertoire, until last night.
Inspired by a recipe for Pan-Seared Cod with Mustard Greens that appeared in a local newspaper article sent to me by my friend, Dr. A., in what he refers to as a Rochester (as in Upstate New York) Rocket, I decided to take another shot at the almighty, but troublesome, Cod. Instead of mustard greens, I thought spinach would be a tasty and photogenic compliment, and instead of a light dressing for the dish, as suggested in the recipe, I thought that a flavorful and spiced up fish broth would better do the trick.
So, off to the fishmonger for some Cod and clam juice, the latter easier to use as a base for the broth than preparing a fish stock from scratch; then, to the supermarket for spinach and the other ingredients for the broth. Frank’s article mentioned lime juice, soy sauce, ginger and shallots. The soy sauce did not appeal to me and I thought shallots would be too strong for what I had in mind. But I liked the idea of lime juice with ginger, and for a little heat I thought maybe a jalapeño pepper. Finally for a flavorful garnish, cilantro!
It worked and it was delicious, particularly with a crusty baguette and a glass of Sauvignon Blanc. So give it a try at: Pan Seared Cod Served on a Bed of Spinach – Ginger, Lime, Cilantro, Jalapeño Broth. Thanks Frank!
A word of caution, Cod being so delicate, should not be flipped. So to cook it evenly, I pan-seared it, then quickly roasted it in a very hot oven…7 minutes in total. The spatula touched the fish only twice, once to gently remove it from the pan and once to gently place it on the bed of spinach.
baguette, Cilantro, Clam Juice, cod, ginger, ginger-lime broth, Jalapeno, lime, Sauvignon Blanc, Spinach
In Fish, Recipes, Seafood on November 10, 2012 at 5:46 PM
Pan-Seared Cod
(Serves two: Active preparation – 20 minutes, cooking time 20 minutes)
Ingredients:
1 lb. Cod fillets
1 lb. Baby Spinach
Salt & pepper
1 8oz. bottle of Clam Juice
¼ cup fresh squeezed lime juice, about 3 small limes
1 tbsp. minced fresh ginger, 1 piece peeled, about 1 inch square
1 jalapeño pepper, seeds discarded, minced
1 tbsp. chopped fresh cilantro
2 tbsps. extra virgin olive oil
¼ cup dry white wine
Preparation:
1. Pre-heat oven to 450 degrees.
2. Season the fillets with salt & pepper.
3. Steam and drain the spinach, keep it warm.
4. Add the clam juice to a small 1 or 2 qt. pot and bring to a boil
5. When it boils, reduce heat and simmer 10 minutes, then add the lime juice.
6. Add the ginger and jalapeño and continue to simmer.
7. Heat an oven-proof skillet on high and add the olive oil.
8. When oil is shimmering, add the seasoned fish, flat side down, and pan-sear for 4 minutes.
9. Transfer skillet to oven and cook for 3 minutes more, do not turn the fillets.
10. Divide the spinach among 2 deep bowls.
11. Carefully remove the fish to a plate and keep warm.
12. Return skillet to stove top and heat on high.
13. De-glaze pan with white wine and then add the ginger-lime broth.
14. Bring to a boil and then pour over the spinach.
15. Gently place the cod fillets on the spinach and top off with the cilantro.
Serve with a crusty, warmed baguette and Sauvignon Blanc.
Please see: What to Do With a Piece of Cod
In General Articles on November 6, 2012 at 5:30 PM
When I first published this over a year ago, it did not contain a picture. Having prepared this dish for guests over the weekend, I had my camera at the ready and am pleased to share this update with you
The Literate Chef
(Serves four)
Ingredients:
- 3/4 cup + 6 tbsps. of extra virgin olive oil
- 8 large cloves of garlic, sliced thin + 5 large cloves garlic, chopped fine
- 1 tbsp. + 1 tsp. of hot red pepper flakes (omit the tablespoon if not all are seafood lovers, see below)
- 2 cans (35 oz.) San Marzano Tomatoes, drained (reserve liquid) and cut-up into large chunks
- 1-pound dried Linguine (Barilla, DeCecco or other premium brand)
- 25 to 30 (6-8 per person) Extra Large Shrimp (16/20 to pound size)
- ½ cup dry white wine
- 1 cup of San Marzano tomato liquid (only if sauce is too thick for taste)
- 30 leaves of fresh Basil
Preparation:
These steps can be performed in advance
1. Peel and devein the Shrimp, cover and keep refrigerated until ready to cook
2. Bring large pot of water to boil, for the Linguine
3. Heat 3/4 cup…
View original post 456 more words
East 86th St., Ehring's, Elk Candy, Germantown, Glendale, Hasenpfeffer, Kasseler Ripchen, Kingsbridge, Kleine Konditorei, Lüchow’s, Lorelei, Lorely Biergarten, Queens, Sauerbraten, Schaller & Weber, The Bronx, U.S. Immigration Laws, W. 231st Street, Wurst Platters, Yorkville, Zum Stammtisch
In General Articles on November 2, 2012 at 3:31 PM
Once upon a time German restaurants were abundant in New York City. On East 14th Street & Irving Place, there was the famous Lüchow’s, and in the Yorkville neighborhood, once known as Germantown, along East 86th Street one could find Kleine Konditorei, the Lorelei (a new Lorely Biergarten has popped up on the Lower Eastside), the Ideal Café as well as many others. There were also numerous German butchers, bakers, delis and even a famous candy store, Elk, which carried delicious marzipan and was very popular around Easter and Christmas and is now, apparently, only on-line. Thankfully, the great butcher shop, Schaller & Weber still exists.
My introduction to German food occurred at Ehring’s, a small gem of a place located on W. 231st Street in the Kingsbridge neighborhood of The Bronx. My friend, Jimmy Murphy (R.I.P.), loved the place and convinced me to try the food. I even took my future wife there on our first date. Unfortunately, like the aforementioned establishments, Ehring’s is now but a happy memory.
Hearty German fare, such as Sauerbraten, Hasenpfeffer, Kasseler Ripchen, and Wurst Platters were plentiful in those German restaurants. You never left any of them hungry, and to help wash the food down, there was plenty of fresh German beer on tap. The entire Yorkville neighborhood always seemed like a party and was a favorite destination for those of us who loved food, beer and conviviality.
Then, along came changes in the U.S. Immigration Laws and urban re-development. With the former, fewer Germans immigrated to the U.S., and with the latter, the low rise apartment houses that once harbored the German retail establishments began to slowly disappear, only to be replaced by high rise apartment houses and generic retail stores. Eventually, most of the German culture disappeared as well, having been replaced by younger non-German speaking residents. Food tastes also changed, German food was deemed to be too heavy and didn’t sit well in the new atmosphere of health-consciousness and fitness. The City is much poorer for the loss.
Finding a good German meal in the City these days is an unexpected pleasure. One such place that is still thriving is Zum Stammtisch in Glendale, Queens, where I had a superb meal a few weeks ago with friends. With the cold weather now settling in here on Cape Cod I decided to make a Sauerbraten this week. A few years ago, when we had weekend guests, Captain Jack brought his firehouse Sauerbraten, it was a treat. Jack is a retired New York City Fire Captain and a good friend. He was kind enough the share this recipe, and I hope that you will enjoy it as much as we just did.
bottom round roast, Dutch Oven, ginger snap cookies, juniper berries, marinade, Sauerbraten, slow-cooking
In Beef, Meat, Recipes on November 2, 2012 at 3:29 PM
Sauerbraten
(Active preparation-45 minutes; inactive preparation-4 days; cooking time 5 hours)
Ingredients
4 tbsp. unsalted butter
1 6.5 lb. Bottom Round Roast
1 tsp. ground black pepper
2 tbsp. Kosher salt
For the marinade:
2 cups of water
2 cups dry red wine
2 cups red wine vinegar
2 cups cider vinegar
2 large carrots peeled and sliced
2 medium onions, chopped coarsely
2 tsps. yellow mustard seeds
24 juniper berries
12 cloves
4 bay leaves
1 tbsp. whole black peppercorns
For cooking and finishing:
½ cup of sugar
3 dozen Gingersnap Cookies, crushed
Preparation
Marinate the Roast:
1. Pat dry the roast with paper toweling and sprinkle with Kosher salt and ground black pepper.
2. In a 5 quart or larger pot, melt the butter, add the seasoned roast, fat side down, and brown on all sides for about 10 or 12 minutes in total.
3. When fully browned, remove the roast and set aside in an enameled Dutch Oven, or large non-reactive bowl, preferably one with a cover.
4. Next, prepare the marinade: add the 11 ingredients to the pot, cover, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool.
5. When the marinade has cooled, pour it over the roast, cover and refrigerate for 4 to 5 days, turning it once each day.
Cook the Roast:
6. When ready to cook the roast, remove from the refrigerator and pre-heat oven to 325 degrees. Alternatively, cook on stove top.
7. Add sugar to marinade and stir well, place Dutch Oven on middle rack of oven and slow cook, covered for 5 hours until roast is fork-tender. If using stove top, bring to a boil, reduce heat so liquid is just bubbling, cover and cook 5 hours.
8. With either cooking method, if roast is not completely covered by the liquid, turn it once or twice during the 5 hours.
9. When done, shut the oven, or heat, remove the meat to a platter and keep warm.
10. Strain the solids from the marinade and discard them. Wipe clean the Dutch Oven, and remove and discard any solids still attached to the roast.
11. Add the strained marinade back to the Dutch Oven, place it on the stove top, bring to a boil and whisk in the crushed gingersnap cookies.
12. Add back the roast and keep warm on a low flame until ready to serve.
13. Slice the roast and pour the gravy over the slices. Serve at once with sides of red cabbage and mashed potatoes.
Please see Where Have All the Germans Gone?
Autumn, autumn chill, autumn leaves, Cape Cod, chopped kale, Falmouth, Kale Soup, New England Winters, Portuguese, portuguese sausage
In General Articles on October 15, 2012 at 7:42 PM
As the daylight hours grow shorter here on Cape Cod and the autumn chill creeps in, my thoughts turn to soup; and when I think of soup, I naturally think of Uncle Fred. Fred always made big batches of soup, broke them down into 1 and 2 quart containers and froze them for quick, nutritious and delicious meals for Aunt Jo and him to enjoy during the long, cold, New England winter. He usually kept one in the back of the freezer as a welcome for when my wife and I would arrive with our children for our annual August vacation in Falmouth. Even though it was mid-summer, that soup would become our first night’s meal.
One of his favorites, reflective of the large local Portuguese speaking community, was Kale Soup. It’s an amalgam of chopped kale, white beans (I used canned beans, which saves time and effort, just be sure to rinse and drain them first), Portuguese sausage and potatoes; delicious, nutritious and sticks to your ribs. I know that Fred wrote down the recipe for me, but I was unable to find it yesterday when I went to the market to pick-up the main ingredients.
However, I did find a batch of recipes and notes from my cousin, Chef Vincent, Fred’s son. Vince’s Kale Soup is a little different from the version I concocted yesterday, he doesn’t use beans. Nonetheless, we share a penchant for good eating, something obviously inherited from our fathers and grandfather. But I don’t ever remember Grandpa in the kitchen, Grandma did all of the cooking, so whatever skill Vince and I have in that regard, must have been passed down from her.
Here’s Vince’s take on soup:
‘There’s nothing like a nice hot bowl of hearty soup on a cold winter’s day! I love cooking soups in the cold months (and it gets cold – for a long time – in Massachusetts!). The aroma fills the house, and the stove keeps the kitchen warm. It’s such a cozy feeling. It’s even more comforting when you get to eat the finished product! My soups are a meal in themselves. Eat them with a nice loaf of warm bread. Man, that’s living!’
I can’t improve on that testimony, so without further ado, check out Portuguese Kale Soup and do cook up a batch as the Autumn Leaves start to fall.
autumn leaves, Cannellini Beans, chouriço, dinner, kale, linguiça, long cold winter, Portuguese Kale Soup, warm crusty bread, yukon gold potatoes
In Recipes, Soups on October 15, 2012 at 7:40 PM
Portuguese Kale Soup
(Yield – about 5 quarts. Active preparation time 1 hour, unattended cooking time 2 hours)
Ingredients:
1/3 cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil
1 medium onion coarsely chopped
7 cloves garlic, minced
6 15oz. cans Cannellini Beans, rinsed and drained
3 lbs. Chouriço, or Linguiça sliced about ¼ inch, or less, thick
4 qts. water
1 cup Beef or Chicken Broth
1 & 1/2 lbs. Kale, (2 medium sized bunches) remove leaves from stems, rip leaves and discard stems
1 lb. Yukon Gold potatoes, sliced and diced in 3/4 inch pieces
Procedure:
1. In an 8 quart pot, heat olive oil on medium.
2. Add onion and garlic, reduce heat to medium-low and cook 5 minutes.
3. Add 3 cans of the beans, stir well and cook 5 minutes.
4. Add sausage, raise heat to medium, cook 3 minutes.
5. Add water and broth, stir well and bring to a boil.
6. When soup is at a full boil, add kale and potatoes, stir well and return to a boil.
7. Reduce heat to medium and boil uncovered for 1 hour.
8. Mash 1 can (2 cups) of the beans in a food processor and stir into the soup.
9. Add the remaining 2 cans of beans to the soup and stir.
10. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, uncovered, for an additional hour.
Serve as a meal along with warm, crusty bread. Leftovers may be frozen in 1 or 2 quart containers to serve as additional meals during the long, cold, winter.
Please see: My Cousin Vinny to the Rescue
Cape May, Marinated Tomatoes, Mason Jars, Parchment Paper, Plum Tomatoes, Roasted Tomatoes, Spring Lake, The Jersey Shore
In General Articles on October 14, 2012 at 10:37 AM
On a visit to friends in Cape May on The Jersey Shore last month, I learned something new about the use of Parchment Paper. I had used Parchment Paper before, and was familiar with its non-stick properties, as well as how it allows for an easy cleanup after baking. I also knew of its use in preparing dishes en papillote. However, I did not know that it also aids in the browning of vegetables. This new use was revealed to me by our friend Lenore in her beautiful new kitchen.
Later that week as we visited with other friends farther north on The Jersey Shore, in Spring Lake, Margie served an appetizer of marinated tomatoes, which she had purchased from a local gourmet shop. They were delicious and I began thinking about how they might have been prepared. They were plum tomatoes, obviously roasted, then marinated in oil and garlic with a little parsley and basil, and probably some salt.
All the way home, after this restful and enlightening visit with friends at The Shore, as it is known, I kept thinking about the marinated tomatoes and how I would execute their preparation. First I needed to buy the parchment paper and Mason Jars. That task accomplished I stopped at the market for the ingredients. Not being sure how far they would cook down, I bought 3 lbs. of plum tomatoes. I found the answer soon enough, they cooked down to about 1 qt., even with all of the added ingredients. I also discovered that they need to marinate for a couple of weeks in order to reach their full flavor.
The versatility and flavor of these Marinated Roasted Tomatoes makes them well worth the wait. Their rapid disappearance, however, convinced me to double the recipe in the future.
Marinated Tomatoes, Mason Jars, Parchment Paper, Plum Tomatoes, Roasted Tomatoes
In Appetizers, Pasta, Recipes, Vegetables on October 14, 2012 at 10:35 AM
Roasted Tomatoes Marinating in a 1 quart Mason Jar
(Makes about 1 quart: 15 minutes preparation, 1 hour roasting, 2 weeks marinating)
Ingredients:
12 ripe plum tomatoes, about 3 lbs.
Extra Virgin Olive Oil for drizzling and for marinating
Sea Salt or Kosher Salt, about 2 tsps.
1 small head of garlic, about 10 cloves sliced thin
1 cup fresh basil, chopped
2 tbsp. fresh oregano, chopped
Special Needs: Parchment Paper and a 1 quart Mason Jar
Procedure:
1. Pre-heat oven to 450 degrees and line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
2. Slice off and discard the stem ends of the tomatoes. Cut the tomatoes in half, lengthwise.
3. Arrange the tomato halves on the parchment paper, skin side down and drizzle each lightly with olive oil. Sprinkle Sea Salt or Kosher Salt over each half.
Roasting the Tomatoes: Second Step-Skin side up
4. Place baking sheet on top rack of the oven and roast for 30 minutes.
5. Turn each tomato over and roast, skin side up, for an additional 30 minutes.
6. Remove tomatoes and any liquid to a large bowl, add the garlic, and let cool.
7. Add the basil and oregano, mix well, transfer to a 1 quart jar and cover with about ½ inch of olive oil, stir well. The olive oil will tend to disperse throughout the jar, so make sure there is always about ½ inch on the top.
8. Cover tightly and let marinate at room temperature overnight, then refrigerate.
9. Let marinate in the refrigerator for 2 weeks or more. Stir every few days, taking care to always leave about ½ inch of olive oil on the top, as a protective layer.
Serve at room temperature as an appetizer on Italian bread toasts,
Served as an appetizer on Italian Toasts
or serve at room temperature over spaghetti or angel hair pasta.
Marinated Roasted Tomatoes served over Pasta
Please see: Discoveries at The Shore
Bermuda, Hamilton, Mark Twain, Photography
In General Articles on September 28, 2012 at 9:57 AM
Some wonderful photos of Bermuda taken by a masterful photographer. I think that they provide an excellent counterpoint to my article: On Tour with The Literate Chef – Bermuda, Part I. The title is a quote from Mark Twain.
flag of italy, fond, italian tri-color, pork medallions, Pork Tenderloin, roasted stuffed pork tenderloin
In General Articles on September 16, 2012 at 7:10 PM
Pork Tenderloins are a great boon to home chefs. They are pre-packaged, usually as a pair of 1 to 1.5 lb. pieces in the pack, easy to find in supermarkets and ready to cook. Sold either seasoned, with a variety of spices or marinades, or plain, i.e., unseasoned, they are tender, relatively low in fat and high in protein, and with them you can put dinner on the table in less than an hour.
We have roasted them in the oven, cooked them on the grill and cut them into medallions, but until recently, never stuffed them. Stuffing chicken or veal cutlets is pretty simple; stuffing larger pieces of meat, like pork tenderloin is a bit more complex and challenging. You need a sharp knife, a meat mallet, wax paper and butcher’s twine.
With our friends Steve and Barbara coming to dinner last week and with a package of seasoned pork tenderloins sitting in the freezer, we decided to try stuffing and roasting them. The tenderloins were seasoned with black pepper and mushrooms, so we thought that a simple, Italian-based stuffing would work well. Nothing is simpler and more favorable than the tri-colored combination of the flag of Italy, green, white and red; in this case, fresh basil, fresh mozzarella and sun-dried tomatoes. And since the tenderloins are low in fat and hence would be dry, a white wine reduction gravy would also work well.
Having identified the ingredients all that was left was devising a plan. After slicing the tenderloins lengthwise, flattening them would be necessary as they would be too thick to stuff. And, because they are so lean, we didn’t think they would properly brown in the oven, even at a high setting of 450 degrees. So searing them in a sauté pan before stuffing seemed to make sense. That would give us the added benefit of providing a base of fond with which to make the gravy.
The process went quite smoothly and was completed, with the exception of the final roasting step, long before our guests arrived. As a result, we were able to enjoy their company with drinks and appetizers and then sit down to a delicious dinner of Roasted Stuffed Pork Tenderloin with a minimum of last minute work in the kitchen.
butcher's twine, meat mallet, mozzarella, Pork Tenderloin, rolled stuffed pork, sun-dried tomatoes
In Meat, Pork, Recipes on September 16, 2012 at 7:08 PM
Roasted and Stuffed Pork Tenderloin
(Serves 4: preparation time 1 hour, cooking time 30 minutes)
Ingredients:
2 Pork Tenderloins (they usually come two in a package) about 2.5 to 3 lbs.
1 medium sized fresh mozzarella, diced into small pieces
1 small jar (7 or 8 oz.) sun-dried tomatoes packed in olive oil
1 cup tightly packed fresh basil leaves
1 & ¼ cup dry white wine
2 tbsps. extra virgin olive oil
Freshly ground pepper to taste
Special items you will need:
10 lengths of butcher’s twine – each 15 inches in length
Meat mallet
Procedure:
1. Cut a deep, lengthwise, slice into each tenderloin; taking care not to cut all the way through.
2. Cover each sliced tenderloin with wax paper and flatten as much as possible with meat mallet.
3. Add olive oil to sauté pan and sear the outside of each tenderloin (one at a time) for about 2 minutes on medium heat. Remove meat to plate and let cool, retain the drippings in the pan.
4. In the meantime make the stuffing: first add the basil leaves to a food processor and pulse chop, then add the sun-dried tomatoes and pulse chop again, finally add the diced mozzarella and pulse chop. Add pepper, blend and set aside.
5. Re-heat the drippings from the tenderloins in the sauté pan, add the wine and bring to a boil, de-glazing the pan. Reduce the wine by about one-third and add about 3 tbsps. of the stuffing to the gravy. You should have about ¾ to 1 cup of gravy. Set it aside.
6. Once the pork has cooled, lay out 5 pieces of cut butcher’s twine on a cutting board, place one tenderloin over the strings, browned side down.
Flattened and ready for tying
7. Spoon approximately ½ of the stuffing onto the tenderloin and close it up, tying off the strings, snip any excess string length after knotting.
8. Repeat for the second tenderloin.
9. At this point the stuffed tenderloins can be placed in the refrigerator until ready to be finished cooking the same day.
Ready for the Oven
10. When ready, pre-heat oven to 450 degrees, place the stuffed tenderloins directly on a low-sided roasting pan and roast for about 25 to 30 minutes until they reach an internal temperature of 145 degrees.
11. Heat the gravy in a small sauce pot.
12. When the meat is ready, remove from the oven and let sit for 10 minutes.
13. Cut the strings and slice each tenderloin into 2 inch thick pieces, add any spilled stuffing to the gravy and pour the gravy over the slices. Serve immediately with sides of Rosemary Roasted Potatoes and Broccoli. Serve with a fine Valpolicella such as a 2009 Corte Figaretto.
Please see: An Experiment in Stuffing a Roast
Baked Eggplant Parmesan, Del Monte Tomato Sauce, Eggplant Parm, Italian Eggplants, Locatelli Romano, Melanzane Parmigiana alla Dorothea, Parmigiano-Reggiano, Silver Palate’s San Marzano Marinara Sauce
In General Articles on August 5, 2012 at 12:32 PM
When my mother died six years ago, she took her recipe for Baked Eggplant Parmesan with her. As has been noted earlier, Dorothea believed in the oral tradition and hardly ever wrote down her recipes; this was one of them. It was a special Melanzane Parmigiana, in that it was neither breaded, nor floured and it contained hard-boiled eggs. I remember it being tangy and delicious, tasting like no other “eggplant parm” and even better served cold. Her granddaughters remember it too, and they miss it and miss her as well.
So, recently, I tried to recreate Melanzane Parmigiana alla Dorothea. Mom used a basic tomato sauce with her eggplant parmesan, probably the old tried and true Del Monte Tomato Sauce doctored up. I decided to use Silver Palate’s San Marzano Marinara Sauce, doctored up. I also used the smaller Italian eggplants rather than the larger American ones, as they are less bitter. And of course, since fresh mozzarella is so readily available in almost any supermarket these days, and even on-line, I used that instead of the packaged, rubbery type. I also used freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, rather than Locatelli-Romano, which she undoubtedly used.
The end result was very good, but not quite hers! Served cold, with a loaf of crusty, Italian bread it was delicious, but still not the way it was remembered. Had my memory failed me? Had I mythologized that baked eggplant, and tasted in my mind something other than the reality of the dish? My older daughter assured me that no, while my “re-creation” was very good, it was “not Grandma’s, it didn’t have that tang.”
Back to the drawing boards! Next time, I will try a little less tomato sauce (my attempt was a little too soupy), more hard-boiled egg and maybe Locatelli-Romano, instead of Parmigiano-Reggiano. In the meantime by all means follow this recipe, or make the foregoing adjustments, I can assure you that you will love it, either way. As for me, I will continue to seek that elusive Baked Eggplant Parmesan of happy memory. Maybe mom will somehow communicate the secret to me, since she did take it with her.
Baked Eggplant, Eggplant Parm, Eggplant Parmesan, Melanzane Parmigiana
In Recipes, Vegetables on August 5, 2012 at 12:30 PM
Melanzane Parmigiana
Ingredients:
2 & ½ lbs. small Italian Eggplants, about 4
1 & ¾ lbs. fresh unsalted Mozzarella, sliced
6 hard-boiled eggs, sliced
2 25oz. (wt.) jars of Silver Palate San Marzano Marinara Sauce
Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Kosher Salt
6 cloves garlic, sliced
1 tbsp. chopped fresh oregano
2 tbsp. chopped fresh basil
¼ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
A roll of paper towels
Preparation:
A day in advance
1. Rinse, dry and slice the eggplants in half horizontally, in order to work with a flat surface. Slice each half lengthwise again, as thinly as possible, about 1/8 of an inch thick. Discard the two outermost (top) slices, which are all skin.
2. Stand a colander in a wide shallow bowl and layer the sliced eggplant in it, sprinkling kosher salt on each layer. Place a paper towel over the last layer and place a heavy weight on top. Leave to stand overnight. (This process removes most of the liquid from the eggplant, thereby making it easier to fry and use less oil.)
The next day
3. Remove eggplant slices from the colander and layer on paper towels to absorb remaining liquid.
4. In the meantime prepare the sauce: add 4 tbsp. of olive oil to a 3 qt. pot. Add the garlic and sauté until translucent, stir in the oregano and add the Marinara Sauce. Heat on high for 5 minutes, and add the basil at the end.
Frying the Eggplant
5. Heat 2 tbsps. of oil in a large non-stick pan. In small batches, being careful to not overcrowd the pan, add the eggplant slices and sauté on medium heat, turning frequently for several minutes, until a light golden brown on both sides. Place cooked eggplant on paper towels to absorb any excess oil. Continue until all of the eggplant is fried, adding more olive oil tom the pan, as necessary.
What it should look like when fried
6. Pre-heat oven to 350 degrees.
7. In a 9.5 by 13 inch non-reactive baking dish, spread two ladles of sauce on the bottom. Add a layer of eggplant; next, layer half of the sliced hard-boiled eggs, and then top with 1/3 of the mozzarella.
8. Repeat step 7, sauce, eggplant, egg, and mozzarella. At this point all of the eggplant and hard-boiled egg should be used.
9. Spread sauce over it again, sprinkle with Parmigiano-Reggiano and top with remaining mozzarella.
10. Place pan in oven and bake at 350 degrees for 45 minutes.
11. Remove and let cool to room temperature. Refrigerate and serve cold with a loaf of crusty Italian bread. Mangia!
Please see You Can Take it With You
In General Articles on July 26, 2012 at 9:45 AM
This recipe is so good, I just had to update it after making it last night for Monica and her children. As suggested by Jeannie, try soaking the dried prunes in Calvados! I will try that the next time.
The Literate Chef
(Preparation time 15 minutes; serves 4.)
Ingredients:
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
Pork Tenderloin, (plain, i.e. unseasoned) about 2 lbs., sliced into 1 inch medallions – You should have about 16-18 pieces
24-30 Ready-to-Serve Prunes, drained and pitted (between 1 and 2 for each medallion). As an alternative, soak dried, pitted prunes in 1 quart of boiled water. In either case reserve about 1/4 cup of liquid to enhance the sauce. Or an even better suggestion soak them in Calvados as suggested by Jeannie.
1/2 cup Calvados
Salt and Freshly Ground pepper to taste
Procedure:
1. In a 12 inch non-stick skillet, on high heat, melt the butter.
2. Add the Pork Medallions, sprinkle with salt & pepper to taste and sauté for 10 minutes, turning several times to brown evenly.
3. When browned, add the prunes and then the Calvados. Shut the heat and ignite the Calvados.
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In General Articles on July 26, 2012 at 5:49 AM
I love this picture, it could have been taken at my Grandma’s and Grandpa’s, although it was not. That could even have been me on my father’s lap, 4th in on the right! I wish that I had a picture like this from those halcyon days!
https://theliteratechef.com/2011/04/09/prologue-2/
In General Articles on July 23, 2012 at 9:16 PM
It’s summertime and the grilling is easy, so get down to the fishmongers and get some wild salmon and have a feast. This was posted last summer but you can enjoy it anew.
The Literate Chef
(serves 4)
Ingredients:
2.5 to 3 lbs. of wild salmon fillets
¼ cup of Extra Virgin Olive Oil
1/3 cup of low sodium soy sauce
1/2 cup honey
3 tbsp. coarsely chopped fresh ginger; about 2 peeled pieces one- inch in length
2 tbsp. coarsely chopped garlic, about 5 cloves
2 tbsp. dried mustard powder
4 teaspoons Potlatch Seasoning
Procedure:
1. Soak the cedar plank for several hours before grilling.
2. In a medium-sized bowl, whisk together the olive oil, soy sauce and honey.
3. Add the garlic, ginger and mustard powder and let sit for 30 minutes so the flavors blend.
4. Remove fish from refrigerator and let sit for 20 minutes while you pre-heat the gas grill on medium. If your grill has a thermometer, you want it to be at about 450 degrees.
5. Place salmon in a shallow non-reactive pan, skin side up and pour marinade…
View original post 173 more words
Antoine's, Beignets, Biloxi, Brennan's, Cafe du Monde, Cajun, Costco, Crab Cakes, Creole, Galatoire's, Keesler Air Force Base, Lump Crab Meat, Mary Mahoney's Old French House, New Orleans, Phillips, Remoulade, Royal Orleans Hotel, Tabasco, Zeppole
In General Articles on July 23, 2012 at 2:03 PM
Whenever I think of New Orleans, where I spent many a weekend pass while defending the Southern Coast of the United States from an invasion by the Viet Cong, I think of food. Of course, I also think of music, drinking and having fun with my Air Force buddies, but mostly I recall the exquisite meals at Brennan’s, Antoine’s, Galatoire’s and the dining room at the Royal Orleans Hotel, as well as beignets (think unfilled zeppole) at Café du Monde at 4:00 am.
I don’t know if those memories stem from the fact that any meal outside of the Keesler Air Force Base mess hall would be memorable, or from the fact that I was exposed to the cooking of a whole different region of the country; the French, Cajun, Creole influence and the use of spices and flavors theretofore unbeknownst to me. Whatever the reason it was a great experience and helped to influence my culinary choices beyond those learned in my mother’s kitchen. I would be remiss to not also mention Mary Mahoney’s Old French House in Biloxi, which was our local respite from the uninspiring cuisine of the mess hall.
Rémoulade is one of those new tastes about which New Orleans taught me. Apparently, it was originally a French relish-type sauce that was adapted in the Creole fashion by adding a Louisiana Hot Sauce like Tabasco, or cayenne pepper to spice it up. There are innumerable recipes for it on-line, but the one I developed is easy to prepare, takes about 10 minutes, and can be made in advance, as long as it is refrigerated.
It goes particularly well with crab cakes, which I made a few weeks ago, after picking up some lump crab meat at Costco. These Crab Cakes were a big hit with the proportion of crab meat to breadcrumbs being limited to 1 pound of crab meat to 1.5 cups of breadcrumbs. Make them, enjoy them with a cold beer, listen to some Zydeco or Jazz, or watch Treme, and ask yourself “Do You Know What It Means To Miss New Orleans?”
Cayenne Pepper, Crab Cakes, hors d'oeuvre, Hot Hungarian Paprika, Lump Crab Meat, sauce remoulade
In Recipes, Seafood on July 23, 2012 at 2:02 PM
Crab Cakes Creole
(active preparation & cooking time about 1 hour – makes 6 to 8 crab cakes as a meal or 22 to 25 as hors d’oeuvres)
Ingredients:
For The Crab Cakes
1 lb. lump crab meat
1 cup thinly sliced scallions, about 7 scallions, both green and white parts
1 cup of chopped, roasted, red peppers, about one 12 oz. jar, drained
1 and ½ cups plain breadcrumbs
2 tbsp. Dijon mustard
2 tbsp. Lemon Juice
3 tsp. of Hot Hungarian Paprika
2 eggs
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
For The Sauce Rémoulade
2/3 cup mayonnaise
3 tbsp. capers, drained
1 tsp. granulated garlic, or ½ tsp. minced fresh garlic
4 tsp. whole milk
1/2 tsp. Cayenne Pepper
1/2 tsp. Hot Hungarian Paprika
Preparation:
1. Prepare the Sauce Rémoulade by combining the 6 ingredients in a small mixing bowl and whisking together briskly. Chill for 30 minutes.
2. In the meantime, to a 4 qt. or larger mixing bowl, add the crab meat, scallions, peppers and breadcrumbs, mix well with a small rubber spatula.
3. To a small mixing bowl, add the mustard, lemon juice, paprika and eggs, whisk together briskly.
4. Pour the wet ingredients into the dry, add black pepper and mix well again.
5. Form the mixture into 6 or 8 cakes, each about the size of a good-sized hamburger.
6. Add the olive oil to 12 inch non-stick frying pan and heat on medium high.
7. When the oil is shimmering, add the cakes and cook for 3 to 4 minutes.
8. Lower the heat to medium, turn the cakes and cook an additional 3 minutes until nicely browned.
Serve the crab cakes over a bed of mixed greens tossed with 4 tbsp. of extra virgin olive oil and 4 tbsp. of champagne vinegar.
Top each crab cake with several spoonful’s of the Sauce Rémoulade.
Note: These crab cakes can be served as hors d’oeuvre as well. Merely form the cakes in smaller pieces, yield 22 to 25.
Please see Memories of NOLA
The Literate Chef 