The Literate Chef

Author Archive

Prosciutto and Peas Frittata with Herbs

In Brunch, Egg Dishes, Recipes on July 4, 2013 at 11:28 AM

Frittata Ready to Eat

Frittata Ready to Eat

Ingredients:

3/4 lb. prosciutto end, diced, about 2 cups.
12 ounces frozen peas, about 2&1/2 cups.
5 leaves of fresh mint, chopped coarse.
1 cup whole milk ricotta cheese
1 dozen eggs
Turmeric, couple of dashes
Pinch each of dried thyme and dried tarragon
1/2 cup chopped fresh basil
2 tbsps. unsalted butter
4 tbsps. extra virgin olive oil

Procedure:

1. Pre-heat oven to 400 degrees.
2. Heat 2 tbsps. of the olive oil in a well-seasoned cast iron pan. Add the prosciutto and brown lightly for 10 minutes on medium-low heat. Remove and set aside.
3. Add butter to the pan. When melted, add the peas, heat on low for about 5 minutes, stirring regularly until fully defrosted. Add the mint. Remove and set aside.
4. Whisk the eggs in medium sized bowl, blend in the ricotta 1 or 2 tbsps. at a time, continue whisking until completely distributed. Add the turmeric, thyme and tarragon.
5. Add prosciutto, peas and basil and mix well again.
6. Heat the remaining olive oil on medium low, add the egg mixture and cook until eggs set firmly, except for the top. About 15 Minutes
7. Transfer pan to preheated oven and let firm up for about 3 minutes then place under broiler to brown for 2 minutes.

Let sit 30 minutes and then place a serving plate on top top and flip. If the frittata does not fall, trying tapping the bottom of the pan. If that fails, as it did for me, simply slice into 8 pieces in the pan, carefully remove the pieces and place on a serving plate.

We served this Frittata for brunch, along with a Strata (prepared by Grammy), Smoked Salmon with Bagels and Cream Cheese, Mimosas and Bloody Marys. 

Please see: This Little Piggy Came from the Market

Web-Logo

Summer Penne

In Pasta, Recipes on July 4, 2013 at 11:27 AM

Summer Penne

Summer Penne

Ingredients:

1/2 lb. prosciutto end, trimmed of fat, about 2 cups diced, save some of the fat for rendering.
2 cups diced fresh mozzarella (see Note 1)
1 & 1/2 cups marinated roasted peppers, julienned
2 pints grape tomatoes, 4 cups halved (see Note 2)
Basil, 1/4 cup sliced
Penne, 1 lb.
2 tbsps. Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Procedure:

1. Bring large pot of water to boil for the penne.
2. Render a couple of strips of prosciutto fat and lightly brown the diced prosciutto. Set aside the browned prosciutto and remaining rendered fat.
3. Cook the penne according to directions. When al dente, drain it and add the olive oil and stir, add the mozzarella and mix well. (see Note 1).
4. Add the prosciutto with the rendered fat as well as the roasted peppers and mix well.
5. Add tomatoes and basil, mix and serve immediately with grated Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Note 1: When it was mixed with the penne, the diced mozzarella did not melt as planned . Instead, it reformed into a mass that had the be pulled apart. Try using ricotta left at room temperature rather than mozzarella.
Note 2: Quarter the tomatoes instead of halving them and blanch them before mixing with the penne.

If you prepare this meal with the revisions, let us know what you think.

Please see This Little Piggy Came from the Market

Web-Logo

This Little Piggy Came from the Market

In General Articles on July 4, 2013 at 11:26 AM

Last month, while visiting my favorite butcher, Vincent’s Meat Market on Arthur Avenue, the “Little Italy” (a/k/a Belmont) of the Bronx, I spotted a prosciutto end, which is hard to come by in Falmouth. Thinking I would use it in a batch of Pasta e Fagioli, I added it to my meat order. But, last week with the sudden onslaught of summer heat and humidity, preparing a winter dish like that over a hot stove held little appeal and the thought of eating one held even less appeal.

Since the prosciutto was cured and vacuum packed, it probably would have lasted three or four more months in the refrigerator, at least until the onset of cold weather. However, each time I opened the refrigerator door it called out to me; after all that is its nature, to be eaten.

One of life’s greatest combinations is prosciutto, mozzarella, roasted red peppers and basil. Put those four ingredients on a chunk of crispy Italian bread, drizzle on some olive oil and you’ve got yourself perfection. But I don’t have a meat slicer, and for inclusion in a Hero (Grinder, Sub, Hoagie or whatever its called where you come from; I’m from New York so it’s always a Hero) prosciutto sliced in any way other than paper-thin would be a sin. Besides, crispy Italian bread is a rarity in Falmouth, where most bakeries are in giant supermarkets.

That tri-color combination, red, white and green, which happens to reflect the colors of the Italian flag, is perfection itself. So what else to do with the remains of this generous little pig? When all else fails, man’s thoughts turn to…PASTA!

Now for the alchemy. First, I thought I would lightly brown the prosciutto in its own rendered fat. Then, toss the mozzarella with the hot pasta letting it melt. Finally, add the prosciutto and other ingredients, and and serve it at room temperature. The execution worked well, but for two hitches, and the meal turned out to be appetizing, but perfection was not attained. I have added some footnotes to the recipe for Summer Penne, which I intend to incorporate next time. But that will have to wait until the next butcher run.

A few days later, using the remaining bit of prosciutto, I prepared a Frittata with Peas and Herbs, which served as the keystone for a delicious Sunday Brunch.

Web-Logo

Dorothea’s Homemade Hot Pepper Sauce

In General Articles on July 1, 2013 at 11:21 PM

Our supply of this hot sauce for is gone, so tomorrow we will cook up a new batch. Double this time. I am looking forward to my next bowl of “macaroni” enhanced with Mom’s sauce. It will be like going home again.

The Literate Chef's avatarThe Literate Chef

(Warning: Be sure to turn on the exhaust fan or open the window when preparing this sauce)

Ingredients:

1 cup extra virgin olive oil
6 cloves garlic, sliced
1 cup of Crushed Red (Chili) Pepper

Steps:

1.    In a heavy skillet, heat the olive oil on high heat.
2.    When it is shimmering, add the garlic, stirring constantly until it turns a medium almond color.
3.    Quickly add the Crushed Red Pepper, remove the pan from the heat and keep stirring as the pepper continues to brown.
4.    Before it begins blacken and burn, pour the sauce into a container to let cool. When fully cooled transfer it to a small jar.
5.    Top off the jar with olive oil so that there is at least a quarter of an inch of liquid on top.
6.    Refrigerate the sauce. Before using in the future, bring it to room temperature and…

View original post 24 more words

At the Farmers Market

In General Articles on June 22, 2013 at 1:24 PM

At the Falmouth Farmers Market this week, one vendor displayed some beautiful yellow tomatoes. That sight triggered a memory of a delightful and unusual Yellow Gazpacho Shooter that was presented a month or so ago, as an amuse-bouche at The Glass Onion, our favorite restaurant in town. Recalling that colorful concoction and its surprising taste and texture, I was compelled to attempt to replicate it and speedily seized the bunch of tomatoes. But, what next?

Fortunately, that evening at the restaurant, our palates were stimulated such that we inquired of the waitress what were the ingredients, other than the obvious yellow tomatoes. She willingly informed us of them but would not disclose the secret of the proportions, lest she have to have us killed. Happily, my wife had thought to jot them down in the handy Notes App of her iPhone 5. So off to the supermarket to buy sufficient quantities of the other ingredients with which to experiment.

The sighting at the Farmers Market was serendipitous, as it inspired me to get back to creating and posting. My seven month hiatus was not planned. Obviously during that period, I cooked, and I certainly ate, but for one reason or another, I just never found the time nor the desire to create and to write. Now that summer has finally arrived, after a dreary winter and a nearly absent spring, perhaps whatever malaise that affected me has ebbed.

In the meantime, since summer is the time to enjoy fresh vegetables and cold soups, I hope that you try this recipe for a flavorful and healthful Yellow Gazpacho.

Note: For our review of The Glass Onion, please click here.

Yellow Gazpacho

In Appetizers, Recipes, Soups, Vegetarian Meals on June 22, 2013 at 1:16 PM

Yellow Gazpacho

Makes 1 quart – Active preparation time 20 minutes – Chill in refrigerator before serving

Ingredients:

6 Small Yellow Tomatoes, about 1 lb.
1 Yellow Pepper, about 8 oz.
1 Mango
1 Jalapeño Pepper
1 Cucumber
2 Tbsps. Champagne Vinegar

Procedure:

1. Finely chop the tomatoes, add to blender.
2. Cut yellow pepper in half, remove and discard seeds, finely chop and add to blender.
3. Peel and finely chop mango and add to blender.
4. Pulse chop blender for 15 seconds, stir well and repeat until ingredients blend into a thick consistency.
5. Cut Jalapeño in half, carefully remove and discard seeds, finely chop and add to blender.
6. Pulse chop for 15 seconds.
7. Peel and finely chop cucumber, add to blender and pulse chop for 15 seconds.
8. Add Champagne Vinegar to blender and blend for 15 seconds.
9. Refrigerate Gazpacho and serve cold.

Please see At The Farmers Market.

Today's Lunch

For a wine pairing that nicely compliments this gazpacho, consider a Rosé, as suggested by bottlenotes at epicurious.com

Web-Logo

With Thanksgiving but a Week Away…

In General Articles, Recipes, Thanksgiving on November 15, 2012 at 10:01 AM

…if, you are still planning your Thanksgiving menu, perhaps we can be of assistance. Last year we posted our traditional family Thanksgiving recipes; here we link them in this update, which we hope that you will find helpful.

Ready and Waiting for the Carving Knife

This year, as our long-time close friends, Marge & Dan, as well as their 3 children and their families will be joining us, we will have 22 at table. Accordingly, we will be doubling up on the Roast Stuffed Turkey with Dorothea’s Italian Sausage and Mushroom Stuffing, and tripling up on the sides of Fresh Cranberry Sauce, Bourbon Sweet Potatoes and Brussel Sprouts Roasted with Hazelnuts.

Fresh Cranberry Sauce

Roasted Brussel sprouts with Hazelnuts

In addition to sharing this special meal with special friends, we will enjoy the added bonus of a double quantity of Turkey Soup after the feast is but a happy memory.

Turkey Soup with Cheese Tortelloni

Happy Thanksgiving to all of our subscribers and readers!

What to Do with a Piece of Cod

In General Articles on November 10, 2012 at 5:47 PM

Living in New England and particularly on Cape Cod, Cod is plentiful all year long. It is healthful, not particularly expensive and, as noted, ubiquitous in the Northeast USA. So then why haven’t I previously posted any Cod recipes; because Cod, despite its many positive virtues, is basically a bland fish; and due to its flakiness, somewhat difficult to prepare.

You can’t grill it, it falls apart too easily. You can’t broil it, it dries out too quickly. You can’t marinate it, it would turn to mush. You could, of course, batter it and fry it, as in Fish & Chips, but that’s too messy for a home cook and besides would stink up the house; no, fish & chips are best left to the professionals. So what can you do with it? You could poach it and serve it with a flavorful sauce, or you bake it and do likewise, but neither of those ideas ever excited me. So Cod has been absent from my repertoire, until last night.

Inspired by a recipe for Pan-Seared Cod with Mustard Greens that appeared in a local newspaper article sent to me by my friend, Dr. A., in what he refers to as a Rochester (as in Upstate New York) Rocket, I decided to take another shot at the almighty, but troublesome, Cod. Instead of mustard greens, I thought spinach would be a tasty and photogenic compliment, and instead of a light dressing for the dish, as suggested in the recipe, I thought that a flavorful and spiced up fish broth would better do the trick.

So, off to the fishmonger for some Cod and clam juice, the latter easier to use as a base for the broth than preparing a fish stock from scratch; then, to the supermarket for spinach and the other ingredients for the broth. Frank’s article mentioned lime juice, soy sauce, ginger and shallots. The soy sauce did not appeal to me and I thought shallots would be too strong for what I had in mind. But I liked the idea of lime juice with ginger, and for a little heat I thought maybe a jalapeño pepper. Finally for a flavorful garnish, cilantro!

It worked and it was delicious, particularly with a crusty baguette and a glass of Sauvignon Blanc. So give it a try at: Pan Seared Cod Served on a Bed of Spinach – Ginger, Lime, Cilantro, Jalapeño Broth. Thanks Frank!

A word of caution, Cod being so delicate, should not be flipped. So to cook it evenly, I pan-seared it, then quickly roasted it in a very hot oven…7 minutes in total. The spatula touched the fish only twice, once to gently remove it from the pan and once to gently place it on the bed of spinach.

Pan Seared Cod Served on a Bed of Spinach – Ginger, Lime, Cilantro, Jalapeño Broth

In Fish, Recipes, Seafood on November 10, 2012 at 5:46 PM

Pan-Seared Cod

(Serves two: Active preparation – 20 minutes, cooking time 20 minutes)

Ingredients:

1 lb. Cod fillets
1 lb. Baby Spinach
Salt & pepper
1 8oz. bottle of Clam Juice
¼ cup fresh squeezed lime juice, about 3 small limes
1 tbsp. minced fresh ginger, 1 piece peeled, about 1 inch square
1 jalapeño pepper, seeds discarded, minced
1 tbsp. chopped fresh cilantro
2 tbsps. extra virgin olive oil
¼ cup dry white wine

Preparation:

1. Pre-heat oven to 450 degrees.
2. Season the fillets with salt & pepper.
3. Steam and drain the spinach, keep it warm.
4. Add the clam juice to a small 1 or 2 qt. pot and bring to a boil
5. When it boils, reduce heat and simmer 10 minutes, then add the lime juice.
6. Add the ginger and jalapeño and continue to simmer.
7. Heat an oven-proof skillet on high and add the olive oil.
8. When oil is shimmering, add the seasoned fish, flat side down, and pan-sear for 4 minutes.
9. Transfer skillet to oven and cook for 3 minutes more, do not turn the fillets.
10. Divide the spinach among 2 deep bowls.
11. Carefully remove the fish to a plate and keep warm.
12. Return skillet to stove top and heat on high.
13. De-glaze pan with white wine and then add the ginger-lime broth.
14. Bring to a boil and then pour over the spinach.
15. Gently place the cod fillets on the spinach and top off with the cilantro.

Serve with a crusty, warmed baguette and Sauvignon Blanc.

Please see: What to Do With a Piece of Cod

In General Articles on November 6, 2012 at 5:30 PM

When I first published this over a year ago, it did not contain a picture. Having prepared this dish for guests over the weekend, I had my camera at the ready and am pleased to share this update with you

The Literate Chef's avatarThe Literate Chef

(Serves four)

Ingredients:

  • 3/4 cup + 6 tbsps. of extra virgin olive oil
  • 8 large cloves of garlic, sliced thin + 5 large cloves garlic, chopped fine
  • 1 tbsp. + 1 tsp. of hot red pepper flakes (omit the tablespoon if  not all are seafood lovers, see below)
  • 2 cans (35 oz.) San Marzano Tomatoes, drained (reserve liquid) and cut-up into large chunks
  • 1-pound dried Linguine (Barilla, DeCecco or other premium brand)
  • 25 to 30 (6-8 per person) Extra Large Shrimp (16/20 to pound size)
  • ½ cup dry white wine
  • 1 cup of San Marzano tomato liquid (only if sauce is too thick for taste)
  • 30 leaves of fresh Basil

Preparation:

These steps can be performed in advance

1.    Peel and devein the Shrimp, cover and keep refrigerated until ready to cook
2.    Bring large pot of water to boil, for the Linguine
3.    Heat 3/4 cup…

View original post 456 more words

Where Have All the Germans Gone?

In General Articles on November 2, 2012 at 3:31 PM

Once upon a time German restaurants were abundant in New York City. On East 14th Street & Irving Place, there was the famous Lüchow’s, and in the Yorkville neighborhood, once known as Germantown, along East 86th Street one could find Kleine Konditorei, the Lorelei (a new Lorely Biergarten has popped up on the Lower Eastside), the Ideal Café as well as many others. There were also numerous German butchers, bakers, delis and even a famous candy store, Elk, which carried delicious marzipan and was very popular around Easter and Christmas and is now, apparently, only on-line. Thankfully, the great butcher shop, Schaller & Weber still exists.

My introduction to German food occurred at Ehring’s, a small gem of a place located on W. 231st Street in the Kingsbridge neighborhood of The Bronx. My friend, Jimmy Murphy (R.I.P.), loved the place and convinced me to try the food. I even took my future wife there on our first date. Unfortunately, like the aforementioned establishments, Ehring’s is now but a happy memory.

Hearty German fare, such as Sauerbraten, Hasenpfeffer, Kasseler Ripchen, and Wurst Platters were plentiful in those German restaurants. You never left any of them hungry, and to help wash the food down, there was plenty of fresh German beer on tap. The entire Yorkville neighborhood always seemed like a party and was a favorite destination for those of us who loved food, beer and conviviality.

Then, along came changes in the U.S. Immigration Laws and urban re-development. With the former, fewer Germans immigrated to the U.S., and with the latter, the low rise apartment houses that once harbored the German retail establishments began to slowly disappear, only to be replaced by high rise apartment houses and generic retail stores. Eventually, most of the German culture disappeared as well, having been replaced by younger non-German speaking residents. Food tastes also changed, German food was deemed to be too heavy and didn’t sit well in the new atmosphere of health-consciousness and fitness. The City is much poorer for the loss.

Finding a good German meal in the City these days is an unexpected pleasure. One such place that is still thriving is Zum Stammtisch in Glendale, Queens, where I had a superb meal a few weeks ago with friends. With the cold weather now settling in here on Cape Cod I decided to make a Sauerbraten this week. A few years ago, when we had weekend guests, Captain Jack brought his firehouse Sauerbraten, it was a treat. Jack is a retired New York City Fire Captain and a good friend. He was kind enough the share this recipe, and I hope that you will enjoy it as much as we just did.

Sauerbraten

In Beef, Meat, Recipes on November 2, 2012 at 3:29 PM

Sauerbraten

(Active preparation-45 minutes; inactive preparation-4 days; cooking time 5 hours)

Ingredients

4 tbsp. unsalted butter
1 6.5 lb. Bottom Round Roast
1 tsp. ground black pepper
2 tbsp. Kosher salt

For the marinade:

2 cups of water
2 cups dry red wine
2 cups red wine vinegar
2 cups cider vinegar
2 large carrots peeled and sliced
2 medium onions, chopped coarsely
2 tsps. yellow mustard seeds
24 juniper berries
12 cloves
4 bay leaves
1 tbsp. whole black peppercorns

For cooking and finishing:

½ cup of sugar
3 dozen Gingersnap Cookies, crushed

Preparation

Marinate the Roast:

1.    Pat dry the roast with paper toweling and sprinkle with Kosher salt and ground black pepper.
2.    In a 5 quart or larger pot, melt the butter, add the seasoned roast, fat side down, and brown on all sides for about 10 or 12 minutes in total.
3.    When fully browned, remove the roast and set aside in an enameled Dutch Oven, or large non-reactive bowl, preferably one with a cover.
4.   Next, prepare the marinade: add the 11 ingredients to the pot, cover, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool.
5.    When the marinade has cooled, pour it over the roast, cover and refrigerate for 4 to 5 days, turning it once each day.

Cook the Roast:

6.    When ready to cook the roast, remove from the refrigerator and pre-heat oven to 325 degrees. Alternatively, cook on stove top.
7.    Add sugar to marinade and stir well, place Dutch Oven on middle rack of oven and slow cook, covered for 5 hours until roast is fork-tender. If using stove top, bring to a boil, reduce heat so liquid is just bubbling, cover and cook 5 hours.
8.    With either cooking method, if roast is not completely covered by the liquid, turn it once or twice during the 5 hours.
9.    When done, shut the oven, or heat, remove the meat to a platter and keep warm.
10.    Strain the solids from the marinade and discard them. Wipe clean the Dutch Oven, and remove and discard any solids still attached to the roast.
11.    Add the strained marinade back to the Dutch Oven, place it on the stove top, bring to a boil and whisk in the crushed gingersnap cookies.
12.    Add back the roast and keep warm on a low flame until ready to serve.
13.    Slice the roast and pour the gravy over the slices. Serve at once with sides of red cabbage and mashed potatoes.

Please see Where Have All the Germans Gone?

My Cousin Vinny to the Rescue

In General Articles on October 15, 2012 at 7:42 PM

As the daylight hours grow shorter here on Cape Cod and the autumn chill creeps in, my thoughts turn to soup; and when I think of soup, I naturally think of Uncle Fred. Fred always made big batches of soup, broke them down into 1 and 2 quart containers and froze them for quick, nutritious and delicious meals for Aunt Jo and him to enjoy during the long, cold, New England winter. He usually kept one in the back of the freezer as a welcome for when my wife and I would arrive with our children for our annual August vacation in Falmouth. Even though it was mid-summer, that soup would become our first night’s meal.

One of his favorites, reflective of the large local Portuguese speaking community, was Kale Soup. It’s an amalgam of chopped kale, white beans (I used canned beans, which saves time and effort, just be sure to rinse and drain them first), Portuguese sausage and potatoes; delicious, nutritious and sticks to your ribs.  I know that Fred wrote down the recipe for me, but I was unable to find it yesterday when I went to the market to pick-up the main ingredients.

However, I did find a batch of recipes and notes from my cousin, Chef Vincent, Fred’s son. Vince’s Kale Soup is a little different from the version I concocted yesterday, he doesn’t use beans.   Nonetheless, we share a penchant for good eating, something obviously inherited from our fathers and grandfather. But I don’t ever remember Grandpa in the kitchen, Grandma did all of the cooking, so whatever skill Vince and I have in that regard, must have been passed down from her.

Here’s Vince’s take on soup:

‘There’s nothing like a nice hot bowl of hearty soup on a cold winter’s day!  I love cooking soups in the cold months (and it gets cold – for a long time – in Massachusetts!).  The aroma fills the house, and the stove keeps the kitchen warm.  It’s such a cozy feeling.  It’s even more comforting when you get to eat the finished product!  My soups are a meal in themselves.  Eat them with a nice loaf of warm bread.  Man, that’s living!’

I can’t improve on that testimony, so without further ado, check out Portuguese Kale Soup and do cook up a batch as the Autumn Leaves  start to fall.

Portuguese Kale Soup

In Recipes, Soups on October 15, 2012 at 7:40 PM

Portuguese Kale Soup

(Yield – about 5 quarts. Active preparation time 1 hour, unattended cooking time 2 hours)

Ingredients:

1/3 cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil
1 medium onion coarsely chopped
7 cloves garlic, minced
6 15oz. cans Cannellini Beans, rinsed and drained
3 lbs. Chouriço, or Linguiça sliced about ¼ inch, or less, thick
4 qts. water
1 cup Beef or Chicken Broth
1 & 1/2 lbs. Kale, (2 medium sized bunches) remove leaves from stems, rip leaves and discard stems
1 lb. Yukon Gold potatoes, sliced and diced in 3/4 inch pieces

Procedure:

1.    In an 8 quart pot, heat olive oil on medium.
2.    Add onion and garlic, reduce heat to medium-low and cook 5 minutes.
3.    Add 3 cans of the beans, stir well and cook 5 minutes.
4.    Add sausage, raise heat to medium, cook 3 minutes.
5.    Add water and broth, stir well and bring to a boil.
6.    When soup is at a full boil, add kale and potatoes, stir well and return to a boil.
7.    Reduce heat to medium and boil uncovered for 1 hour.
8.    Mash 1 can (2 cups) of the beans in a food processor and stir into the soup.
9.    Add the remaining 2 cans of beans to the soup and stir.
10.    Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, uncovered, for an additional hour.

Serve as a meal along with warm, crusty bread. Leftovers may be frozen in 1 or 2 quart containers to serve as additional meals during the long, cold, winter.

Please see: My Cousin Vinny to the Rescue

Discoveries at The Shore

In General Articles on October 14, 2012 at 10:37 AM

On a visit to friends in Cape May on The Jersey Shore last month, I learned something new about the use of Parchment Paper. I had used Parchment Paper before, and was familiar with its non-stick properties, as well as how it allows for an easy cleanup after baking. I also knew of its use in preparing dishes en papillote. However, I did not know that it also aids in the browning of vegetables. This new use was revealed to me by our friend Lenore in her beautiful new kitchen.

Later that week as we visited with other friends farther north on The Jersey Shore, in Spring Lake, Margie served an appetizer of marinated tomatoes, which she had purchased from a local gourmet shop. They were delicious and I began thinking about how they might have been prepared. They were plum tomatoes, obviously roasted, then marinated in oil and garlic with a little parsley and basil, and probably some salt.

All the way home, after this restful and enlightening visit with friends at The Shore, as it is known, I kept thinking about the marinated tomatoes and how I would execute their preparation. First I needed to buy the parchment paper and Mason Jars.  That task accomplished I stopped at the market for the ingredients. Not being sure how far they would cook down, I bought 3 lbs. of plum tomatoes. I found the answer soon enough, they cooked down to about 1 qt., even with all of the added ingredients. I also discovered that they need to marinate for a couple of weeks in order to reach their full flavor.

The versatility and flavor of these Marinated Roasted Tomatoes makes them well worth the wait. Their rapid disappearance, however, convinced me to double the recipe in the future.

Marinated Roasted Tomatoes

In Appetizers, Pasta, Recipes, Vegetables on October 14, 2012 at 10:35 AM

                                                           

Roasted Tomatoes Marinating in a 1 quart Mason Jar

       (Makes about 1 quart: 15 minutes preparation, 1 hour roasting, 2 weeks marinating)
Ingredients:

12 ripe plum tomatoes, about 3 lbs.
Extra Virgin Olive Oil for drizzling and for marinating
Sea Salt or Kosher Salt, about 2 tsps.
1 small head of garlic, about 10 cloves sliced thin
1 cup fresh basil, chopped
2 tbsp. fresh oregano, chopped

Special Needs: Parchment Paper and a 1 quart Mason Jar

Procedure:

1.    Pre-heat oven to 450 degrees and line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
2.    Slice off and discard the stem ends of the tomatoes. Cut the tomatoes in half, lengthwise.
3.    Arrange the tomato halves on the parchment paper, skin side down and drizzle each lightly with olive oil. Sprinkle Sea Salt or Kosher Salt over each half.

Roasting the Tomatoes: Second Step-Skin side up

4.    Place baking sheet on top rack of the oven and roast for 30 minutes.
5.    Turn each tomato over and roast, skin side up, for an additional 30 minutes.
6.    Remove tomatoes and any liquid to a large bowl, add the garlic, and let cool.
7.    Add the basil and oregano, mix well, transfer to a 1 quart jar and cover with about ½ inch of olive oil, stir well. The olive oil will tend to disperse throughout the jar, so make sure there is always about ½ inch on the top.
8.    Cover tightly and let marinate at room temperature overnight, then refrigerate.
9.    Let marinate in the refrigerator for 2 weeks or more. Stir every few days, taking care to always leave about ½ inch of olive oil on the top, as a protective layer.

Serve at room temperature as an appetizer on Italian bread toasts,

Served as an appetizer on Italian Toasts

or serve at room temperature over spaghetti or angel hair pasta.

Marinated Roasted Tomatoes served over Pasta

Please see: Discoveries at The Shore

‘You can go to heaven if you want. I’d rather stay in Bermuda.’

In General Articles on September 28, 2012 at 9:57 AM

Some wonderful photos of Bermuda taken by a masterful photographer. I think that they provide an excellent counterpoint to my article: On Tour with The Literate Chef – Bermuda, Part I. The title is a quote from Mark Twain.

An Experiment in Stuffing a Roast

In General Articles on September 16, 2012 at 7:10 PM

Pork Tenderloins are a great boon to home chefs. They are pre-packaged, usually as a pair of 1 to 1.5 lb. pieces in the pack, easy to find in supermarkets and ready to cook. Sold either seasoned, with a variety of spices or marinades, or plain, i.e., unseasoned, they are tender, relatively low in fat and high in protein, and with them you can put dinner on the table in less than an hour.

We have roasted them in the oven, cooked them on the grill and cut them into medallions, but until recently, never stuffed them. Stuffing chicken or veal cutlets is pretty simple; stuffing larger pieces of meat, like pork tenderloin is a bit more complex and challenging. You need a sharp knife, a meat mallet, wax paper and butcher’s twine.

With our friends Steve and Barbara coming to dinner last week and with a package of seasoned pork tenderloins sitting in the freezer, we decided to try stuffing and roasting them. The tenderloins were seasoned with black pepper and mushrooms, so we thought that a simple, Italian-based stuffing would work well. Nothing is simpler and more favorable than the tri-colored combination of the flag of Italy, green, white and red; in this case,  fresh basil, fresh mozzarella and sun-dried tomatoes. And since the tenderloins are low in fat and hence would be dry, a white wine reduction gravy would also work well.

Having identified the ingredients all that was left was devising a plan. After slicing the tenderloins lengthwise, flattening them would be necessary as they would be too thick to stuff. And, because they are so lean, we didn’t think they would properly brown in the oven, even at a high setting of 450 degrees. So searing them in a sauté pan before stuffing seemed to make sense. That would give us the added benefit of providing a base of fond with which to make the gravy.

The process went quite smoothly and was completed, with the exception of the final roasting step, long before our guests arrived. As a result, we were able to enjoy their company with drinks and appetizers and then sit down to a delicious dinner of Roasted Stuffed Pork Tenderloin with a minimum of last minute work in the kitchen.

Roasted Stuffed Pork Tenderloin

In Meat, Pork, Recipes on September 16, 2012 at 7:08 PM

Roasted and Stuffed Pork Tenderloin

(Serves 4: preparation time 1 hour, cooking time 30 minutes)

Ingredients:
2 Pork Tenderloins (they usually come two in a package) about 2.5 to 3 lbs.
1 medium sized fresh mozzarella, diced into small pieces
1 small jar (7 or 8 oz.) sun-dried tomatoes packed in olive oil
1 cup tightly packed fresh basil leaves
1 & ¼ cup dry white wine
2 tbsps. extra virgin olive oil
Freshly ground pepper to taste

Special items you will need:
10 lengths of butcher’s twine – each 15 inches in length
Meat mallet

Procedure:
1.    Cut a deep, lengthwise, slice into each tenderloin; taking care not to cut all the way through.
2.    Cover each sliced tenderloin with wax paper and flatten as much as possible with meat mallet.
3.    Add olive oil to sauté pan and sear the outside of each tenderloin (one at a time) for about 2 minutes on medium heat. Remove meat to plate and let cool, retain the drippings in the pan.
4.    In the meantime make the stuffing: first add the basil leaves to a food processor and pulse chop, then add the sun-dried tomatoes and pulse chop again, finally add the diced mozzarella and pulse chop. Add pepper, blend and set aside.
5.    Re-heat the drippings from the tenderloins in the sauté pan, add the wine and bring to a boil, de-glazing the pan. Reduce the wine by about one-third  and add about 3 tbsps. of the stuffing to the gravy. You should have about ¾ to 1 cup of gravy. Set it aside.
6.    Once the pork has cooled, lay out 5 pieces of cut butcher’s twine on a cutting board, place one tenderloin over the strings, browned side down.

Flattened and ready for tying

7.    Spoon approximately ½ of the stuffing onto the tenderloin and close it up, tying off the strings, snip any excess string length after knotting.
8.    Repeat for the second tenderloin.
9.    At this point the stuffed tenderloins can be placed in the refrigerator until ready to be finished cooking the same day.

Ready for the Oven

10.    When ready, pre-heat oven to 450 degrees, place the stuffed tenderloins directly on a low-sided roasting pan and roast for about 25 to 30 minutes until they reach an internal temperature of 145 degrees.
11.    Heat the gravy in a small sauce pot.
12.    When the meat is ready, remove from the oven and let sit for 10 minutes.
13.    Cut the strings and slice each tenderloin into 2 inch thick pieces, add any spilled stuffing to the gravy and pour the gravy over the slices. Serve immediately with sides of Rosemary Roasted Potatoes and Broccoli. Serve with a fine Valpolicella such as a 2009 Corte Figaretto.

Please see: An Experiment in Stuffing a Roast

You Can Take it With You

In General Articles on August 5, 2012 at 12:32 PM

When my mother died six years ago, she took her recipe for Baked Eggplant Parmesan with her. As has been noted earlier, Dorothea believed in the oral tradition and hardly ever wrote down her recipes; this was one of them. It was a special Melanzane Parmigiana, in that it was neither breaded, nor floured and it contained hard-boiled eggs.  I remember it being tangy and delicious, tasting like no other “eggplant parm” and even better served cold. Her granddaughters remember it too, and they miss it and miss her as well.

So, recently, I tried to recreate Melanzane Parmigiana alla Dorothea. Mom used a basic tomato sauce with her eggplant parmesan, probably the old tried and true Del Monte Tomato Sauce doctored up. I decided to use Silver Palate’s San Marzano Marinara Sauce, doctored up. I also used the smaller Italian eggplants rather than the larger American ones, as they are less bitter. And of course, since fresh mozzarella is so readily available in almost any supermarket these days, and even on-line, I used that instead of the packaged, rubbery type. I also used freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, rather than Locatelli-Romano, which she undoubtedly used.

The end result was very good, but not quite hers! Served cold, with a loaf of crusty, Italian bread it was delicious, but still not the way it was remembered. Had my memory failed me? Had I mythologized that baked eggplant, and tasted in my mind something other than the reality of the dish? My older daughter assured me that no, while my “re-creation” was very good, it was “not Grandma’s, it didn’t have that tang.”

Back to the drawing boards! Next time, I will try a little less tomato sauce (my attempt was a little too soupy), more hard-boiled egg and maybe Locatelli-Romano, instead of Parmigiano-Reggiano. In the meantime by all means follow this recipe, or make the foregoing adjustments, I can assure you that you will love it, either way. As for me, I will continue to seek that elusive Baked Eggplant Parmesan of happy memory. Maybe mom will somehow communicate the secret to me, since she did take it with her.